Modern Tool Watch Icons by Matt Wright — Tools of Time Camerawest blog
Question: What do the Eiffel Tower, Sushi, David Bowie, Nirvana, the Leica M5, blue jeans, Elvis Presley, and the Rolex Daytona have in common?
Answer: They are all icons that were once overlooked, ignored, or misunderstood by the masses.
Given that this is an article about watches, let’s focus for a moment on the Rolex Daytona. Most forget that Rolex couldn’t initially get people to buy the Daytona. Few, apparently with the exception of Paul Newman, really wanted a Daytona at the time of release. Times change and now the Daytona is one of the more iconic (and expensive) references in the Rolex line.
The question I routinely ask myself and others is which currently underrated or overlooked watch has the potential to become a modern tool watch icon?
Each year, we are offered a bewildering array of watches to purchase but very few meet my criteria of a modern tool watch icon. For nearly a decade, the watch industry has been rehashing, rereleasing, reissuing, and generally regurgitating past successes with only a few daring to look toward the future.
In 2023, “faux-tina fatigue” got the best of me and I decided to write off reissues altogether. On the other end of the spectrum, ultra-modern watches that looks like spaceships or fishbowls hold little appeal for me. While I can appreciate (from afar) the audacity of brands like Arken, Linde Werdelin and MB&F, their creations don’t fit my lifestyle.
My tastes fall squarely within the “tool watch” genre. These are go-anywhere, do-anything watches that don’t require pampering. I can wear them to work, on vacation, at the supermarket, or on an adventure. My ideal tool watch is versatile and transitions effortlessly from a bracelet to a NATO. Integrated bracelet watches, excessively thick watches, whimsy, and fixed spring bar watches don’t make the cut for me.
Identifying potential modern tool watch icons remains a challenge. Too many tool watches are straight homages or reissues looking toward the past with no regard for the present — let alone the future. I admire companies like Nivada, Vulcain, Aquastar, Yema, Ollech and Wajs, Benrus, and Baltic. Their homage/reissue watches certainly have their place. Many would disagree, but I put the Tudor Black Bay series in this category as well. These are all great watches and companies, but if I’m going to purchase a vintage-looking watch, I’ll seek out the original if at all possible. For example, I’d rather hunt down an amazing Tudor Submariner at the CW Watch Shop before I purchase a Black Bay. Similarly, this incredible Technos Super Compressor holds more appeal for me than a modern Benrus or Longines reissue of their super compressor style watches.
This leaves me hunting references that tweak old designs, incorporate new materials, use bold colors, and/or offer something unique beyond what I can find on the vintage shelf. I like my watch to stand out and be interesting but maybe not too interesting. Unique and playful are welcome, but I don’t want a science fiction experiment on my wrist.
The final point to discuss before diving into my list of possible modern tool watch icons is price. In 1970, a new Rolex Daytona cost somewhere between $250 and $1,000. Adjusted for inflation, that range translates to roughly $3,000-$7,000 today. This is interesting because my relationship with a watch changes once the price reaches around $5,000. I routinely carry more than that in camera equipment and would certainly own watches exceeding that price point, but for a daily driver I wear comfortably, and without worry, a $5,000 limit feels reasonable.
Cedric Bellon CB-01
Cedric Bellon is my favorite watch designer. Full stop. If you weren’t aware that there are watch nerds passionate about designers, you’re not alone. In most cases, designers remain behind the scenes in the watch industry. Cedric Bellon is an exception. The CB-01 is a modern take on the skin diver that I believe will achieve cult status. Additionally, CB is blazing a trail for sustainability in the watch world. Rare are the occasions where you can directly support an artist and have something incredible to show for it. This is one of them. To find CB watches, you will need to go to Watch Angels, which manages production. Is it odd that there is no CB website? Maybe. But for a designer who is doing things differently, the website is apparently an unnecessary afterthought. From my vantage point, Cedric Bellon is to watches as Miyazaki san (MS-Optical) is to Leica lenses.
Fortis Marinemaster M-40
If a criterion for becoming a watch icon is being misunderstood upon release, the Fortis Marine Master is steaming full steam ahead toward icon status. Beyond its hooded lugs, the Marine Master doesn’t hark back to any specific reference, although I can appreciate a resemblance to my beloved Heuer 984.004 and other, similar, hooded lug, watches of the era. Its bold colors, matching rubber strap, and innovative design are guaranteed to make watch nerds and keyboard warriors alike either salivate with excitement or erupt in fiery debate.
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